SURF BUMS NEEDED !!!!

I was reading an article asking for signatures in order to send to the white house a petition to get out of  jail a war veteran with post traumatic stress disorder.The man,as all of us,use surfing as therapy.
Mexican cups arrested this guy becouse he pass the border with a gun and went to a declaration line to notify the mexican customs of the fact.
This situation has carried me in a mental trip into the old times when surfing was full of this and others life stories, just before the Pró Surfer scenario and all the money involved in the surf business.
In the good old days when surf was not a job,a 9h to 5h routine in a office was a nightmare and a impossibility to the surfers who wanted to spend their time surfing or looking for perfect waves.

Miky Dora,surfer,rebel,thinker and genuine

   
To contextualize,surfers were,in a way,the healthier lifestyle embedded in the hippie culture,carrying all their banners and another,the endless summer.
This fact produced unique life stories and shaped charismatic characters,granting to surf an aura that puts him way beyond of being simply a sport.
Surf was a way of living,a life style,probably you are thinking that today with the injection of money in the surf industry it´s easier to the athletes just doing surf without money preocupations,which is true, but something was used as currency in this trade that turns surfers into athletes,and that my friends was our soul.
All the adventures,some better than others if we look at them in a moral prespective,that allowed surfers to surf and find the "perfect wave" around the globe,are now history.
In the Pró age surf is just a sport,a sport sold with a clean image to the general public whitout space for the Miky Doras of the world.A sport where just the act of surfing metters and not all the adventures and misadventures that spices the main purpose,the waves.
The result of this sailing is a bunch of kids that dress and surf in equal manner,without individual expression,the very same that puts surf in a mystical dimension,and a legion of executives that,religiously,all  Fridays went to bed at 9 pm,already with the wetsuit dressed and after slobber all the surf magazines they can lay their hands on.

In the holidays this well succeed executives went from the nearest airport straith to the most fashinable surfcamp of the year,whether in Maldives or in Bali.Time is money and they do not have time to waste with trivial things as local cultures or decoding a map to find new spots.They surf the spot,get some "surf babes" impressed with their fashionable surf clothes,in the party´s of the camp of course,just before return to their wifes and kids,raising the soul surfing to an all new level,the business level.
Dora,"the cat" got fed up of warning us about uncle´s sam projects.
                                              Retun Miky Dora,you are forgiven.