The Yoga of Surf

Certain things does not follow the wheel of time,keep unchangeable.Surfing is one of those things.As much as industry evolves the act of grabbing a surfbord and drop waves always produced a feeling,that words fail to describe,that only changes in intensity.Perhaps the American term "stoked" is what comes closest to the state of grace that surfing provides.Stoked is past, present and future, is to live so intensely that the time is filled with these three concepts.It is the philosopher's stone,so sought and desired by the mystics of all times.It is alchemy,an yoga which produces a state of bliss, which produces chemical reactions in the cells and atoms of the human being raising him into a state of happiness.He becomes one with nature.If everyone pratices surf the world would be a better place to live, where wars had no space and environmental preservation a reality in all our actions.
Go Surf and be happy.