Tuesday, June 6, 2017
Miki Dora warned us
Aloha
In a very short space of time surfing went from a marginal sport practiced by hippies and people who did not want anything with life to a be an sport of elite practiced by valiant athletes.The money made that the opinion of people changes radically,from junkies into beautiful people in a question of hours,beautiful people that makes bucks jump into their pockets .....
As a sport, in the sense of catching a wave and surfing it, it can already be practiced anywhere in the world,the so in vogue wave pools have democratized the sport in such a way that it is not necessary to have the ocean or the seacoast near.
Mother nature is no longer part of the lifestyle,the surfer does not have to understand the ocean,the tides,currents,
know the winds, swell directions, no matter if they are reef breaks or sand breaks or to be in the right place at the right time. Communion with Mother Nature has ended.
And the procession has not started yet, we already have surf instructors who do not know how to surf, surf schools from countries without the minimum sea tradition and to end in apotheosis surf will be an Olympic modality.
As for me, I anxiously hope that surfing stop to be no longer fashionable,that there is not so much money involved, that the surf industry explodes and a surfboard and a wetsuit are all that it takes to ride a wave.
That there are always a few euros in the pockets to buy firewood for the fire at the beach and for some beer to give the tone of the guitars.
Mahalo
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